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With H&M's new 2019 Conscious Collection (as seen to the left) it seems fitting to discuss the driving force of millennials on eco friendly fashion.
In a word retail is dying, and social media continues to thrive, the question on everyone’s mind seems to be the importance of ecological and sustainable ways of living, fashion being no exception. It appears customers are no longer interested in the experience of sauntering into Harrods and being greeted by a personal shopper, complimentary of your every move and thrilled to show you classic staples from high end labels. A little voice in the back of your head is shouting at you and telling you to put the items down, as you’ve read all about the unethical treatment of workers and 1000% inflated prices yet the devil on your shoulder wins and all of a sudden your credit card is out and the salesperson is suddenly robbing you with a hefty commission. The closure of many branches of department stores such as House of Fraser is evidence of what many are calling the ‘death of retail’. But why isn’t the shopping experience appealing anymore? It appears the wave of insta ‘it’ girls and quirky campaigns have made the consumer more focused on innovative and sustainable ways to draw the consumer into being ecologically friendly. From biodegradable garments to vegan and cruelty free materials it is undeniable that the fashion world is evolving in ways few thoughts were possible. Ignorance on the matter is no longer an option. Here we will discuss these new advances and their importance in today’s society.
It would be questionable in an article about modern fashion not to focus on the importance of being eco friendly to the new wave of consumers. Up until recent years the leaders of the fashion world have been torn between providing shocking high-status garments and the importance of sustainability. Many brands such as Reformation, ASOS’ Reclaimed Vintage and Bottle Top Fashion are amongst the high-profile companies jumping on the upcycling trend and in doing so are paving a path for other fashion giants to follow. As shocking as it is, the impacts of fast fashion are leaching through the factory walls and seeping into the ignorant mindset that is destroying our environment. Something must be done, and it appears millennials are the answer. To millennials, who the entrepreneur run site ‘ecommerceist’ states spend around 5.4 hours a day on social networking websites, sustainability is an aggravating yet vital issue lingering in the back of their minds. The Environment Protection Agency estimates that on 15% of all post-consumer textile waste ends up being recycled, leaving 85% to be put in landfill. Fast fashion is a must for keeping up to date with the latest dress Kylie Jenner has just promoted yet the countless environmental videos flooding your timeline of wildlife dying as a result of pollution has to be a priority. Undeniably, the rise of vintage boutiques is back in fashion but on a larger scale companies like Textile Waste Diversion are vital in the upcycling process, encouraging a community that promotes green recycling through the donation of clothing. But how do we know the new age of shoppers are interested?
The Nielson Global Survey of Corporate Social Responsibility and Sustainability conducted a survey in 2015 which proved that a staggering 51% of the respondents who voted for sustainability being a vital factor in consumerism were millennials. The term ‘conscious consumerism’ has never been more applicable in the fashion world than it has today. New sustainable design techniques such as design for disassembly allows smart materials such as dissolvable solvron to assist in the dissemble of garments in an energy efficient way. It is these innovations in the design world that give brands an edge and can increase revenue and repeat business by appealing to the conscious consumer. The non-profit organisation of H&M, The H&M foundation, is another perfect example of a fast fashion giant adapting their approach to prioritise gaining consumer trust over increasing sales. The Global Change Award launched in 2015 by the foundation has been a strong driving force in promoting change with innovations such as algae and Smart Stitches. The use of algae, rich in bio fibre that nourishes the skin as well as to reduce the amount of waste water in usual textile production and pollution caused through the dying of materials. Another idea worthy of the award includes a thread called ‘Smart Stitch’ where at 266 degrees, zips and stitches fall off allowing the garment to fall apart and different materials to be recycled. This solves the global issue of disassembling labour-intensive fabrics by making the process more efficient and this results in an increase of recycled materials. Innovations like this are revolutionising the fashion world and consumers who are also technologically savvy are keen to jump on board the initiative trends.
Of course, another key element of the shopping experience for consumers is the luxury of craft. There is an undeniable appeal for lovers of luxury to purchase a garment that has been hand embroidered in the French ateliers or tailored in a lavish design studio in London. Not only does the process imply impeccable craftmanship but also allows the consumer to enter an exclusive and elite market. However, the importance of well-known labels is not to be diminished, the power of the classic red soles of Louboutin or the quilted detail of the favourite Chanel bag is what keeps the fashion houses going, and what introduces the new era of fashion obsessed to lesser known design from the brands. On the other hand, to assume high price tags mean ethic production is incorrect. It appears that brands such as Prada and Dior have just been fortunate in avoiding the protests over unethical supply chains but never the less they are a perfect example of mistreatment in high fashion. As well as the mass production of over sea products fashion houses have recently become under fire over their use of fur and leathers. Anti-fur protesters have been proven to have a huge impact on even high fashion Giants, such as Gucci in 2018, and Versace, Burberry and Coach from 2019 collections. They have been given no choice than to cater to the consumers new cruelty free demands. This clearly demonstrates the importance of meaningful fashion to recent clients.
Consumers today more than ever are frantically searching for individuality. So many online platforms, such as Tumblr, Pinterest and Instagram give easy access to view the personal profiles of so many different cultures and styles. However, this accessibility of trends can result in everyone looking very similar and the once creative design of a dress by an independent designer is now being ripped off by multiple ‘insta’ brands for a fraction the price. This has modern consumers to frantically search for individual and unique apparel, again benefiting ethical brands who value moral obligations over large revenue. By purchasing from unknown designers, the customers can be part of a well assembled design movement that also allows for individuality from the frenzy of label obsessed savages who would sell their soul for a Gucci belt.
Although fast fashion is environmentally problematic, there is no denying that a spontaneous highstreets haul is enjoyable even for royalty, Kate Middleton is amongst the celebrities championing affordable brands like Zara’s accessibility and quick response to current trends from fashion weeks. However, the new age of conscious consumers is exposing brands that don’t fit ethical requirements. The collapse of the Rana Plaza in 2013 is a perfect example of the consequences of fast fashion, over a thousand people dead and brands such as Primark, Walmart and Matalan all exposed to vast scrutiny for employees manufacturing products in such unthinkable conditions. But is it possible for fast fashion to be ethical? Surprisingly yes. Brands like H&M have introduced a global garment collection where customers could return unwanted clothes in return for a voucher to spend n store. Companies like Zara are also following suit with their 2016 ‘Join Life’ sustainable scheme. Fortunately, backing from celebrities such as Olivia Wilde and Emma Watson is furthering consumers to take pride in their labels for green reasons, not just the hefty price tags. To further on the field of ethical production, ASOS appear to be setting an example for less waste by turning offcuts of material into sanitary pads for young women in Africa. This is clear proof that retailers are becoming more and more aware of the compassionate and ethical acts that attract repeat custom.
Personally, I believe the true meaning of fashion today lies with the media and its promotion of sustainable living. The fact that we live in a digital age where people get paid millions to promote simple products is a perfect example of the impact media has on our self-values and sense of reality. By using brands that treat employees fairly, have low impact on the environment and use vegan materials the customer not only can achieve their desired look but also do it in a conscious and moral way. Brands that neglect moral principles and their environmental impact are under constant scrutiny to the point where they have no choice but to adapt. As an example, the overwhelming pressure to convert to leather free goods is allowing consumers to take pride in their ethical and eco-friendly purchases. The fact that even the largest adored fashion brands are having to modify their production processes and use of materials to meet customer demand illustrates just how powerful the voice of the conscious consumers is. In the words of the original sustainable pioneer Stella McCartney, being eco-friendly ‘doesn’t mean style and luxury needs to be sacrificed’ and it is proven that modern fashion houses agree and are joining the movement that is making fashion moral. Fashion is no longer solely about glamour and expense to prove social status. Millennials are driving the fashion world in a sustainable direction that is weary of both style and substance.